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Rotorua, New Zealand 3/8/05
Rotorua, NZ 3/8/05
I’ve been in a big writing mood for about 24 hours but, like usual, this is the first time I have sat down. It started yesterday on the bus ride form Taupo to here. It was a sunny day and I had a big clear window on the bus to watch the rolling landscape of New Zealand cruise by. The Kiwi Experience was more subdued than my previous trip on it. It was Monday morning after all. (Not that days of the week really matter here though.) I guess it was the late night at Holly Cow the previous evening that had most of the bus conked out. Not me though. I felt reflective. Not tired and not energized; very content to just watch the fields of vegetables pass by outside the window. I put my head phones on and listened to a new album I had picked up just before I left the States and quickly threw it on my mp3 player the night before leaving the country.
The band is called Bright Eyes and it’s basically the artistic outlet of Connor Oberst. The name of the album is “I’m wide awake. It’s morning”; a fitting title for my mood that day. So there I sat; a quiet bus, beautiful scenery, and good tunes. I loved it.
It’s a short drive form Taupo to Rotorua, less than a couple hours. The driver stopped a couple times to point out some scenery; mountain ranges, etc. but then it was back to soaking up the amazing lyrics of Mr. Oberst. He is an amazing writer. So many great lines I can’t memorize one before another one sparks more thoughts in brain. It was a good grounding morning to start another action packed day.
I officially now have traveling buddies; Amy, Brian, and Stephan. They are all friends from other stops along the way and all traveling alone so we banded together and got a quad when we checked into the Hot Rocks Backpacker in Rotorua.
Rotorua, and the surrounding area, is a place of great geothermal activity. I had been hearing since I got in country how bad it smelled here. There is so much Sulphur in the air it hits the human nose like rotten eggs. I actually adjusted quickly and within an hour didn’t even notice the smell. After all it isn’t as bad a Decatur Illinois! (Decatur is near where I grew up and is home to a huge soybean processing plant)
After checking into our hostel the 4 of us grabbed some lunch and then set off to find bubbling mud! In true Backpacker style we were on a tight schedule. Brian, Stephen, and I were going river sledging at 2:00 and Amy was going rafting at 2:30. We had one hour to see some geysers and hot mud. As cool as geothermal activity is, and was, I think an hour was enough time.
We hiked down the road to Te Puia, a Mauri cultural center and home to the closest geothermal activity. We laughed most to the way there too because we all swore it seemed a lot closer when we drove by it on the way into town. When we finally got to the entry booth everyone was feeling very rushed so seeing the $20 entry price for only a quick run through seemed steep. Amy & Brian tried to negotiate a better price but the ticket lady was not in any mood to deal with us and gave us the attitude to prove it. Of course this just made Amy even madder. We couldn’t pass up the chance to see the geysers though so we paid the money.
I laughed the entire way through the park listening to Amy in her sweet English accent swear like a sailor about the bitch working the ticket booth and where she could stick her map! Ahh, classic!
I had gone rafting while in Queenstown but that trip left me unsatisfied. I wanted a white water adrenaline rush and the low water level on the Shotover River didn’t provide it. So when the Kiwi Experience activity clipboard got to me on the bus that morning, and river sledging was an option, I checked the box without thinking twice. The idea of skipping the raft and just getting right in the water on a little board sounded perfect. It turned out to be a lot of fun but I still need more white water; more speed. I’m beginning to realize my level for excitement is higher than the average Backpacker. I don’t say that in a boastful way. I’m just very comfortable in the water and with heights, even speed to a certain extent. So a 3 foot water fall is fun but not thrilling. All in all it was still not a bad way to spend an afternoon.
Without a doubt the biggest highlight of Rotorua was the Tamaki Mauri Village last night; a true tourist experience with busses and lines but the Mauri that ran it still managed to maintain what felt like an authentic Mauri feeling and general sincerity in what they were doing and saying. I truly felt like a guest and not just a Dollar sign.
The entire experience is set up like you are a Mauri tribe visiting another village. Before I left the States a friend of mine, Burke Smith from Pi K A, had told me about a similar experience that he had while traveling here. So as Burke recommended, when our bus driver asked for a volunteer to be chief of our bus/tribe I volunteered quickly. As my Dad says, “RHIP; Rank Has It’s Privileges!”
For the rest of the night I had a front row seat, with the 5 other bus chiefs, for all the dances, songs, etc. I even got to eat first. It was amazing!
I will also admit to taking the experience very seriously. The initial greeting at the village, where the host chief puts on a show of strength and agility in an attempt to size up the worthiness of the visiting tribe, was intense; 300 people standing around you while a big man yells, chants, and waves a spear at you. The thought of showing any disrespect or laughing never crossed my mind. It was truly amazing!
Doh! A quick look at the watch tells me I’m about to miss my bus. It’s on to the next town. Tonight I’ll say Kia Ora Auckland. Right now I have to say Enohora Rotorua.
MJF
I’ve been in a big writing mood for about 24 hours but, like usual, this is the first time I have sat down. It started yesterday on the bus ride form Taupo to here. It was a sunny day and I had a big clear window on the bus to watch the rolling landscape of New Zealand cruise by. The Kiwi Experience was more subdued than my previous trip on it. It was Monday morning after all. (Not that days of the week really matter here though.) I guess it was the late night at Holly Cow the previous evening that had most of the bus conked out. Not me though. I felt reflective. Not tired and not energized; very content to just watch the fields of vegetables pass by outside the window. I put my head phones on and listened to a new album I had picked up just before I left the States and quickly threw it on my mp3 player the night before leaving the country.
The band is called Bright Eyes and it’s basically the artistic outlet of Connor Oberst. The name of the album is “I’m wide awake. It’s morning”; a fitting title for my mood that day. So there I sat; a quiet bus, beautiful scenery, and good tunes. I loved it.
It’s a short drive form Taupo to Rotorua, less than a couple hours. The driver stopped a couple times to point out some scenery; mountain ranges, etc. but then it was back to soaking up the amazing lyrics of Mr. Oberst. He is an amazing writer. So many great lines I can’t memorize one before another one sparks more thoughts in brain. It was a good grounding morning to start another action packed day.
I officially now have traveling buddies; Amy, Brian, and Stephan. They are all friends from other stops along the way and all traveling alone so we banded together and got a quad when we checked into the Hot Rocks Backpacker in Rotorua.Rotorua, and the surrounding area, is a place of great geothermal activity. I had been hearing since I got in country how bad it smelled here. There is so much Sulphur in the air it hits the human nose like rotten eggs. I actually adjusted quickly and within an hour didn’t even notice the smell. After all it isn’t as bad a Decatur Illinois! (Decatur is near where I grew up and is home to a huge soybean processing plant)
After checking into our hostel the 4 of us grabbed some lunch and then set off to find bubbling mud! In true Backpacker style we were on a tight schedule. Brian, Stephen, and I were going river sledging at 2:00 and Amy was going rafting at 2:30. We had one hour to see some geysers and hot mud. As cool as geothermal activity is, and was, I think an hour was enough time.
We hiked down the road to Te Puia, a Mauri cultural center and home to the closest geothermal activity. We laughed most to the way there too because we all swore it seemed a lot closer when we drove by it on the way into town. When we finally got to the entry booth everyone was feeling very rushed so seeing the $20 entry price for only a quick run through seemed steep. Amy & Brian tried to negotiate a better price but the ticket lady was not in any mood to deal with us and gave us the attitude to prove it. Of course this just made Amy even madder. We couldn’t pass up the chance to see the geysers though so we paid the money.
I laughed the entire way through the park listening to Amy in her sweet English accent swear like a sailor about the bitch working the ticket booth and where she could stick her map! Ahh, classic!
I had gone rafting while in Queenstown but that trip left me unsatisfied. I wanted a white water adrenaline rush and the low water level on the Shotover River didn’t provide it. So when the Kiwi Experience activity clipboard got to me on the bus that morning, and river sledging was an option, I checked the box without thinking twice. The idea of skipping the raft and just getting right in the water on a little board sounded perfect. It turned out to be a lot of fun but I still need more white water; more speed. I’m beginning to realize my level for excitement is higher than the average Backpacker. I don’t say that in a boastful way. I’m just very comfortable in the water and with heights, even speed to a certain extent. So a 3 foot water fall is fun but not thrilling. All in all it was still not a bad way to spend an afternoon.Without a doubt the biggest highlight of Rotorua was the Tamaki Mauri Village last night; a true tourist experience with busses and lines but the Mauri that ran it still managed to maintain what felt like an authentic Mauri feeling and general sincerity in what they were doing and saying. I truly felt like a guest and not just a Dollar sign.
The entire experience is set up like you are a Mauri tribe visiting another village. Before I left the States a friend of mine, Burke Smith from Pi K A, had told me about a similar experience that he had while traveling here. So as Burke recommended, when our bus driver asked for a volunteer to be chief of our bus/tribe I volunteered quickly. As my Dad says, “RHIP; Rank Has It’s Privileges!”
For the rest of the night I had a front row seat, with the 5 other bus chiefs, for all the dances, songs, etc. I even got to eat first. It was amazing!
I will also admit to taking the experience very seriously. The initial greeting at the village, where the host chief puts on a show of strength and agility in an attempt to size up the worthiness of the visiting tribe, was intense; 300 people standing around you while a big man yells, chants, and waves a spear at you. The thought of showing any disrespect or laughing never crossed my mind. It was truly amazing!
Doh! A quick look at the watch tells me I’m about to miss my bus. It’s on to the next town. Tonight I’ll say Kia Ora Auckland. Right now I have to say Enohora Rotorua.
MJF
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