Okinawa Islands, Japan 10/27/06

Zamimi Village, Okinawa Islands, Japan, 10/27/06

Island time! Just in time too cause I was getting tired! Dave and I arrived here on the 4 p.m. ferry today. Just enough time to check into our guest house and squeeze in a run before dinner which was served at 6 p.m. promptly. It’s a quiet evening now and I can already feel my batteries start to recharge which is odd because physically I also feel drained, probably because of the 8K mountain run. The mind and spirit get so excited at the gorgeous scenery, and they race with thoughts of exploring it all in the next few days. The body just keeps churning along up hill after hill. I probably looked like a dog at the park.

Zamimi is a small island. Population 1000 and I think they must have padded that stat for more funding or something because it feels more like 500. Like the other many islands that make up what is known as Okinawa it is surrounded by beautiful coral beaches and reefs, crystal blue water, lush green mountains, and laid back islanders. Much like Hiroshima of course this place conjures up images of WWII and John Wayne movies but we have not made it to any of those memorials on the South end of the main island, and Zamimi only served as a US staging area so it’s kind of hard to imagine this place in a state of war. As Dave put it, "Can you imagine what these laid back simple islanders thought when they woke up one morning and saw ships about as big as this island off the shore?!"

So why am I so tired? After Hiroshima we basically went on a sight seeing sprint. Well as fast as a sprint is when you are hauling a full pack with you where ever you go and step one at every new place starts with finding a place to stay that night.

We took a ferry to the island of Miyajima, about 30 minutes off the coast of Hiroshima. It was pretty touristy but in a totally Japanese way so I actually didn’t have too much trouble with it. Miyajima is on the World Heritage list because it is a sacred Buddhist place and has several ancient temples and shrines. I know, I know...more temples and shrines but I will say that these were the most impressive thus far.

We stayed the night on the island after a long search for accommodations. I felt like I was in a scene from 7 Years In Tibet as Dave and I hiked around the old town for an hour with our gear. There was not a single other Westerner in sight. Plus I finally had the occasion to slip on the ol`hiking boots. Giddy up! Give me something to climb!!

Miyajima is home to the sacred Mt. Misen; a 529 meter peak with a few different trails leading to the top. A far cry from Fuji but it will have to do for now. Near the top of are more temples and shrines, including a fire that legend says has been burning for 1200 years...a wood fire mind you. Tended to by the island monks who keep adding logs. It wasn’t a big fire either. You doze off on your shift and it’s all over!

I was more impressed with just the view. Looking out onto Japans Inland Sea with shadows of islands and mountains fading into the distance there is no wonder why 1200 years ago one monk decided to stay up there and build a fire. I would like to have stayed myself but we couldn’t. Like I said we were on a sprint.

We caught a late afternoon ferry back to Hiroshima, a cab back to the greatest hotel in Japan, The Dormy Inn (OK that’s just my opinion but I really do like that place and it’s not just because of the free washing machines and comfy pj`s. It just felt homey.) and then off to the airport at 5 a.m.

I think that was the day that drained us. After the very active day on Miyajima a 5 a.m. wake up call followed by more miles wandering around Naha, Okinawa...most of the time with those packs on again...mentally and physically we were tired.

Naha is an OK town. Kind of like Key West but with more school kids and less drunks. The later of which of course is what makes Key West so fun though which is why Naha just gets an OK rating. Central Okinawa, which is the area that Naha is in, is also home to a large US military base. I expected to feel this presences and culture mix but it actually feels like I am getting deeper and deeper into Japan. Few people now speak English and if they do it`s only a few words. No worries of course. I'm still get along just fine with the exception of bus and ferry schedules. With no English letters any where on the signs we have to find an info stand and play the bumbling tourist role to figure things out.

My limited vocabulary still gets me around though and my new rule is to always memorize the following words before entering a foreign speaking country:

Hello, Good Bye, Thank You, Please, Excuse Me, Yes, No, Beer, and Water.

That’s my minimum of course. I’d love to speak any other language fluently but for now I’ll just have to get by being polite, drunk, and hydrated.

The island is so quiet right now. It’s 10 p.m. and the only sound is a dog barking and some crickets. It’s about time to go lay out my bed...oh ya forgot to mention. We are staying in more and more Japanese style places. No beds, sometimes no chairs, and the baths that I thought were such a novelty in previous entries are now the only option. I always wanted a shower with a seat in it but I am not sure if a little stool, at a shower 3 feet off the floor, in a wide open room with more little showers is what I had in mind. I have to admit though it really doesn’t bother me that much.

The food has been fantastic! I don`t have a clue what most of it is but I have not found a thing I don`t like. Plus Dave doesn`t dig on seafood so I get double of most things! Good thing I am running a lot!
MJF